James Barker 18K, 22K & 24K Gold Tourmaline, Diamond & Pearl Convertible Brooch Pendant

James Barker Rare Signed 18K, 22K & 24K Gold Tourmaline, Diamond & Pearl Convertible Brooch Pendant

A remarkable piece of wearable art by American studio goldsmith and sculptor James Barker (1941–2005), whose extraordinary jewelry occupies a special place at the intersection of fine art and goldsmithing. His creations are increasingly difficult to find, making this signed, one-of-a-kind brooch pendant a particularly exciting discovery.

Over a career spanning more than three decades in California and New Mexico, Barker developed a distinctive artistic language rooted in ancient metalsmithing techniques. Working primarily in high-karat gold, he combined rich textures, sculptural forms, unusual gemstones, and beautiful pearls to create jewelry that was as much about artistic expression as adornment. His work celebrates the warmth and malleability of gold, often incorporating contrasting finishes and unexpected combinations of precious materials.

This extraordinary piece is a wonderful expression of that philosophy. Crafted in 18K yellow gold with 22K gold bezel settings and richly textured 24K gold accents, the design brings together an intriguing collection of precious materials in a beautifully balanced, sculptural composition.

A vibrant pear-shaped red-purple tourmaline provides a lovely touch of color, complemented by sparkling round brilliant and princess-cut diamonds. Two cultured pearls add an entirely different dimension: a luminous silver-toned drop pearl with delicate pink overtones and an elongated white baroque pearl whose wonderfully irregular shape contributes to the organic character of the design.

The interplay of highly polished gold, textured surfaces, colorful gemstones, and lustrous pearls creates a piece that invites a closer look. Every element feels thoughtfully considered, yet the overall composition has the spontaneous, expressive quality that makes studio jewelry so compelling.

Beautifully engineered with a concealed bail and pin closure, the piece can be worn as either a pendant or a brooch. The longer pearl drop can also be detached, offering another way to enjoy this versatile design.

Signed with Barker's JB maker's mark and bearing 18K, 22K, and 24K gold hallmarks, this is an exceptional example of the artist's distinctive craftsmanship. For collectors of American studio jewelry, it represents an opportunity to acquire an unusual and substantial work by a goldsmith whose creations rarely appear on the market.

A small sculpture in precious metals and gemstones, designed to be worn, admired, and treasured.

Details

Artist: James Barker (1941–2005), American Studio Goldsmith and Sculptor

Design: One-of-a-Kind Convertible Brooch Pendant

Metal: 18K, 22K and 24K Yellow Gold

Finish: High Polish and Hand-Textured Gold

Length 3.56”, Width 2.23”

Tourmaline: 0.70 Carat Pear-Shaped Red-Purple Tourmaline

Diamonds: 0.42 Carats Round Brilliant and 0.16 Carats Princess-Cut Diamonds

Total Diamond Weight: Approximately 0.58 Carats

Pearls: Silver-Toned Drop Cultured Pearl and Elongated White Baroque Cultured Pearl, Both with Pink Overtones

Drop Pearl: Approximately 18 × 10.9 mm

Baroque Pearl: Approximately 37.5 × 6.2 mm

Versatility: Hidden Pendant Bail and Brooch Pin Closure; Longer Pearl Drop Can Be Detached

Hallmarks: 18K, 22K, 24K and JB Maker's Mark

Total Weight: 26.6 Grams

Measurements: All Gemstone Weights and Measurements Are Approximate